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Temple
ruins on Island of Gozo
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Discovering
the Ancient Mother in Malta
Mothers and Daughters
travel to the sacred sites, fall, 1999
by Danica
Anderson
Perhaps it is the way the
yellow white Maltese limestones glisten in the sun
and in the dark that triggers a deep hidden memory
within us. I have felt that ancient memory on Malta
and sister island Gozo sometimes in the smell of
aqua seas and mists around Azure Window on Gozo or
in the tinges of red ochre coating the Hypogeum
walls three stories beneath the streets of a
Maltese city.
Many think that the
pyramids are the oldest structures in the world.
The reality is that the Mother & Daughter
Temple (Ggantija) located on the island Gozo (a
sister island to Malta), predates the pyramids by a
1,000 years. This makes Ggantija the oldest site in
the world. The megalithic limestone temples
demonstrate that our textbooks and western history
are outmoded and one-sided.
I ache with sadness at the
sheer loss of the feminine in our lives today. Many
of the daughters that come to Malta with me on the
work/study tour become angry at the sheer absence
of 'herstory' in their lives, schools and studies.
Malta is one ancient site that triggers memories so
old that they seem to be flowing from the First
Mother. The huge silent limestone temples and sites
urge the world to re-member the power of the mother
and daughter relationship. And this seems to
channel the fury into a more creative outlet, the
deepening of the mother/daughter bond.
The pilgrimage of mothers
with their daughters on this work/study tour helped
all of the participants to access the immediate
knowledge and wisdom of our ancient mothers' legacy
just by being onsite. Daughters on the Malta tour
noted was the deep grandeur of the civilization of
the Goddess. Now, young women were hearing her
story being spoken and taught; they absorbed their
mothers' legacy, a legacy that spoke about 6,000
years of no wars, gender peace and the highest of
art forms found to date. Even more profoundly, the
daughters were re-membering their mother and
daughter relationships, memories triggered by the
Megalithic limestones and ancient Goddess sites.
Like all tours to the
ancient places, this recent visit was filled with
synchronicity. We were allowed to have a private
tour in the Hypogeum which has been closed for the
past five years. Joseph Farrugia was a wonderful
Maltese caretaker/herstorian of the Hypogeum and
talked as if the Hypogeum was his mother. Red
pigment etches the spirals into the limestone , and
the round walls -- no wall was straight -- are
acoustically perfected to human vibrations. One of
the young maidens sang at the limestone window in
the Hypogeum and her voice drummed up through all
the floors of the underground temple where the
Sleeping Goddess was found. Only a few months
before, Jennifer Berezan cut her album "Returning"
inside the Hypogeum, she did this because of the
floating vibrations and the feminine spirituality
within these round rooms.
After having done my own
pilgrimage to ancient Goddess sites and led many
tours, I have seen how the megalithic temples and
tombs exert their archetypal pull through their
embodiment of body forms, and especially of
feminine body forms. Even Crete's Knossos palace is
a walking labyrinth, and labyrinths are symbolic of
the destiny found in the womb. We find ourselves
within the body of a woman -- our mother.
The Hypogeum made us feel
as if we were inside the womb of the Goddess.
Within its walls, our tour group lost all
consciousness of linear time and calendar days. The
Daughters of Wisdom were allowed to sing and open a
circle within the womb of the Hypogeum that
involved the encircling of arms to model our
support for daughters to actually feel with their
bodies. The singing vibrated through our bones and
resonated in our souls. Many mothers cried during
the ritual activities. The only words that floated
in the air were the words sung by a young maiden of
our group.
Rachel Pollack explores the
aspect of the Goddess's body in more depth in her
book, The Body of the Goddess. Our group
lived in an embodied community for seven days.
Everything from their feet to their eyes took in
the feminine forms that abound in Malta. Many of
the rituals and circle-kolo processes added more
dimension and depth to the process of honoring the
mother/daughter bond. It was as if each one was
cutting and sculpting the form of the Goddess
during the tour.
One process that provided
for an embodied community experience was to cut and
sculpt the feminine forms. This involved a ritual
in which all of us screamed and toned our pain and
anger while holding hands in a circle. Much like
the Native American women's calls to prayer and the
African women's high pitched peals, the daughters
cut through manmade language and were able to voice
a deeply hidden well of pain and anger. I felt each
daughters' call not only in my ears but through my
body in vibrations. Often after this ritual,
laughter spilled out of the mouths and I sensed a
great release similar to the flow of the high tides
and low tides of the ocean. The daughters feel the
very same rhythm embodied in the oceans and mother
nature's cleansing process of floods, hurricanes or
fires.
The huge and fat Lady of
Malta is a large limestone figure of a full-bodied
woman in a skirt. The figure of the giantess in the
Tarxien cemetery evokes the perception that women's
storage-artifacts embody stories about women. I
prefer to call her the Giantess and not label her
as huge and fat as the previous archaeologists have
done. In one glance, many of the young women
suggested that perhaps the giantess was strong,
like the mythic Amazons. More effective and sacred
than words, the giantess triggers ancient memories
within the modern daughter.
Veronica Veen, a Dutch
archeologist who has worked in Malta since the
mid-1980's, traced the giantess's name to that of
Saracen. The name "Saracen" indicates that the
giantess was a pagan and that she had a dark
complexion; she wore the clothing of a mother
and/or a grandmother. In another part of Malta
Xaghra, the giantess was named "Sansuna" and that
indicates that she was tall, and stronger than the
biblical Samson. These ancient stories echoed many
of the women's stories as the participants began
relating the truth of their own lives during their
pilgrimage. Many had lost their authentic voice and
noticed how they lacked the words, and indeed the
vocabulary.
To name their
mother/daughter relationship, one process was to
author their personal myth of their lives. Many
daughters complained of hitting a wall during this
ritual. I have found that many women feel that
someone outside themselves must author their story,
that they have no right to pen their lives. The
paper tablecloths of a Maltese restaurant became
the medium that I chose for the young women to
express their personal myths. With colored chalks,
pastels and pens, they set to work, drawing and
penning their own stories as manifestation of our
need to become authors. When we were done, there
was not a single inch of blank white space on the
tablecloths! Before their very eyes, the daughters
had made a wonderful tapestry before the food was
set in front of them. The meal was eaten in grace
and dignity and hushed voices as if to honor the
magnificent tapestry that embodied them all.
On our visit to Tarxien
cemetery on the island of Malta, the young women
rubbed their fingers in a circle on an ancient
grain stone. The grinding stone ritual ended with
the daughters giving gifts to their mothersThe
young maiden that sang at the Hypogeum limestone
window wrote a song for her mother and played it
there. She was 16 and did not know, when she wrote
her song about voices from the cemetery, that
Tarxien was a cemetery where thousands of Maltese
lay decorated in red ocher under the ground. The
lyrics pointed to the depth and core of the
Mother/Daughter bond that is largely forgotten in
our culture. She sang how her mother gave birth to
her in the middle of the cemetery. I smiled at the
giantess at Tarxien and marveled at how she always
manages to stir our collective memory. At times
very angry, the young maiden wondered why her
mother had not seen her need to be wrapped with
divine feminine archetypes while living in the
patriarchy.
At the mother/daughter
temple site, Ggantija on the Sister Island Gozo,
the daughters sat in a circle behind the temple. We
commenced our circle-kolo and rituals. Pictures of
our daughters and mothers in infancy decorated the
ground. Some cried, others expressed their rage at
the loss of the relationship, while others
re-membered their bonds. Overhead a helicopter
buzzed around our circle for half an hour. A
Maltese man stood outside the wall watching our
group. When we tried to gain entrance to another
Maltese site the next day, we were almost denied
entry because word had gotten around that we were
practicing evil. Fear is behind most of this, and
always present is the fear of the
Feminine.
These ancient Goddess sites
are more often cordoned off, and as with the
Hypogeum, permission is needed to gain access. What
was once open, free and available for women to
practice archetypal rituals and to remember bonds
is now held in the hands of androcratic rule (men).
This makes it more and more difficult for women to
trigger their ancient memories and to find a
mirroring of the divine feminine in our culture.
Dale Spencer's book, Manmade Language,
describes how our culture and language do not
contain a vocabulary for women to express bond with
their mothers.
As a psychotherapist, I
have seen the need for a deeper, fuller
mother/daughter relationship. Women are always in
service to others. The constant performance for all
others taxes the role of being a mother and a
daughter. Many women simply cannot imagine taking
time off to do a tour like this; they don't value
themselves enough to pay for a sacred vacation. Of
course, this underscores how women are living in a
culture that does not encourage, respect or prefer
the feminine.
Doing an intensive workshop
on mother-and-daughter issues in the realm of a
great maternal, ancient culture predating the
pyramids offers an experiential inheritance greatly
needed by us all. Perhaps, this is one inheritance
you might want to give to your daughter. And
remember, all of us are daughters, so every woman
will benefit from participating in this tour.
Join the next work/study
tour for Malta in October 2000. Email
me.
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